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I've seen some good reviews on ICONs at HF so am going to crack open the pocket book and pick up a 3/8" and 1/2". That should be plenty for either as the cover bolts are pretty small. Can I ask where you got your info? Go to the start of the link I gave you, there for every size of bolt and grade the tightening torque is given. Problem is those old bolts corrode in the housing and make the job difficult for the next guy. Last edited by ronjenx; 01-28-2019 at 07:14 PM. Grandpa always said to "stop tightening well before it starts getting looser". Unfortunately, I didn't find any torque specs for its bolts in the manual. Those bolts are not torque to yield. It appears that getting at the thermostat housing is a bit involved, but nothing too crazy. Just a little cheat sheet that I made up. This a common procedure on many make/model cars.
TBI Mounting Bolts----------------------------------------------17. You may not edit your posts. My Haynes manual says 21 ft. Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. Does anyone know the torque specs for the 4 thermostat housing bolts on a 1983 2F? I'd still expect it to be within 40% of values (14 lbs +/- 6 lbs) but I wouldn't expect it to be so far off I'd start shearing bolts, or that bolt shear tolerances would be so close to torque specs mentioned. Location: Northern California. Aftermarket or AISIN water pumps frequently come without new bolts. I never torque caliper bolts. 2000 4Runner Limited 4x4 V6. 6L JK engine, the torque in question is 106 in/lbs, according to the 2012 JK service manual. The intake uses M7, which are 17Nm.
Again, if new bolts are to be used, it would say it in the instructions for the job. I'm about to pick up new torque wrenches because my crappy Craftsmans are pissing me off for other reasons. I suggest you get a quality thick gasket and not the flimsy cork or thin paper variety, and remove the housing. Procedure: Start with engine cold and heater flow on. What is your particular vehicle? Checked in the shop manual and cannot find an answer... Is there a torque setting for tightening the two bolts on the thermostat housing after replacing both the thermostat and a new seal? Water pump bolts use thread sealer. The coolant flush "how to" just says " tighten housing bolts. " Even though the gasket is placed around the perimeter of the thermostat, I'm still seeing some seepage around the thermostat housing. And why did you remove every bolt on a 2019?
Anything which has a soft cork gasket does not need torquing! Water Pump to Block----------------------------------------115 in-lbs. Intake bolts are not angle torqued, thus they are reused. For anyone else that may look at this thread hoping for torque thermostat housing bolts must be torqued to 15 ft/lbs. 09-19-2019 11:20 AM. 25-35# sounds right to me. Thermostat housing crapped out and I removed the intake manifold and T-stat housing and have new parts/gaskets in hand. Just little tid bits I thought i'd share. The water outlet spec is also 71 inch-pounds. The 2 big bolts that hold the t-stat to the cyl head could be torqued somewhere above 20 ft/lbs. I can't find them online or in the Haynes. I noticed the other day that a small amount of coolant was sitting on one of the studs above the nut. I modified/added a couple of the images to help a little.
While replacing the thermostat, I broke one of the two bolts securing the thermostat housing at a level of 12 ft-pounds. Here it is for the rear wheels: Volvo calls this procedure "Angle-tightening, " all other bolts are simply referred to as using the correct torque.
Nor do you mention how to reset the parking brake whether it be type # 1 or type #2 as the first step in adjusting the parking brake, is a lot of stuff you haven't mentioned?????. What is more important is that they are good bolts to start with, that the mounting surfaces of the housing and the intake are smooth and that you tighten them evenly. I'm using blue RTV and I saw on a video that it wasn't recommended for this. You may not post attachments. The higher grade HF stuff is supposed to be pretty good.
Snug, and then a little more is good enuf. Hence the reason new bolts come with the pump. For example M6 thread. The valve cover on my 1. I have 4 different size Tekton torque wrenches and use them all. Trying to get my wheels back on this weekend and am feeling impatient, ha. I don't know why we even try with some people. I'm also wondering if thermostat studs are designed for more stretch, acting more like a spring than as a firm clamp.
REFERENCE: TP 2102201, SECTION SECTION 2(21) RECONDITIONING ENGINES B5202, B5204, B5234, B5252, B5254; 850 1992-. And extremely shitty shitty production. Join Date: Dec 2011. Most housings go for about 150, give or take US dollars. Engine Off and Ignition On------------------------------------23-31 PSI (fuel pressure). Tried two dealers and both just gave me dumb looks. Tear down showed slight differences in design, but manufacturing quality was quite high. The jiggle valve allows trapped air to exit, since the trapped air will rise to surface, so to speak. There should be no confusion as to what angle torque means if you know what you are talking about.
I did finally figure out that the rubber gasket does not go under or over the goes around it. I agree, 14 ft-lbs isn't exactly a herculean amount of force and should be pretty straight forward. If those bolts are only 10 or 12mm then the housing is likely smaller and more delicate than I have envisioned (I have not put my dirty fingers on it yet). But if I strip a head bolt, or perhaps better said if a head bolt strips,... So what is the size of the bolt? I would definitely try using a 1/4 inch torque wrench if possible. Working perfectly now.