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Vehicle: 1995 Nissan Hardbody. The drive shaft would not fit. If the output shaft is twisted it needs to be replaced. Location: Pemberton, New Jersey. Try not to smack at an angle because this can distort the flange. I'm also having trouble removing the bolt that holds the front and rear sections of the driveshaft off (9 and 10 in the realoem diagram) or as seen here: I've tried wacking my wrench with a hammer and can't get it; the carrier bushing just absorbs the impact:/ I haven't tried removing the bolt with the shaft off of the car, I imagine it would be more difficult? Driveshaft will not go in. Yeah maybe I was thinking of disconnecting the half-shafts. In Focus Custodians of the Stone.
There are also some good vids on how to replace the joint and gator. Took three guys and their vice and a drift, 15 minutes, etc, etc but now it's apart. Mine looked alot like yours. If it grinds when on full lock, you have a problem but otherwise grinding noises on cornering will be the bearings. Removing drive shaft. Hope you are replacing the pilot bearing in the flywheel and putting a little grease in it as well as changing the pressure plate and throwout bearing and grease the fork swivel points. So I am going to replace the seal and see if that helps any. Going to go and get a high tensile bolt tomorrow and I'm hoping that will be fine. I keep a spare yoke with the driveshaft removed from it as a protective device. The yoke goes all the transmission as far as it will go. If it is not cross threaded, give it some wells with a good fitting socket or ring spanner. The drive shaft is NOS.
Is there supposed to be one missing on the shaft? That seal is pretty much useless without it. The entire bearing has blown out of the housing in my drive shaft center support, resulting in a lot of loud clunking when in motion. I realize that it has to be a little shorter in order to install, but I don't remember one being this short. If you have a large gap both front and rear then the differentials are too far apart for some reason. Drive shaft going bad. The motor mounts could be off front to back, especially if they have some wear to them. When you achieved that the u joint came out easy. That is a common problem with older seals. I will look at loosening the engine & trans mounts and see if I can get any movement.
I have this weird belief that parts are supposed to fit together and shouldn't require much more force than to overcome their weight. If it makes more of a resonant ring, then the obstacle is the steel of the output shaft, and I have no idea why that's happening. Great - love it when things go good! If the u joint is NROS then the nylon has already been done away with. Surely not enough to be able to hold the shaft up there and pull the yoke out to it. Re: Driveshaft will not go in! Join Date: Nov 2012. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Don't try beating it off with a regular hammer, or you're gonna mess something up. The front drive shaft is ok with just enough room to install. I love it whan parts go operly! I was removing the rear driveshaft, and had disconnected it from the differential, but couldn't get it to pull free at the other end. Can't separate rear drive shaft flange from diff. Check out the 8legs Racing page: If you can't find the spots ScotcH is talking about thread some nuts onto the bolts. I have 2 seperate driveshaft yokes that I have been trying, and theres nothing inside them to prevent it from sliding, I even had one all the way in, and I removed it to install the driveshaft, and then this happens...
If you go that route, please post the part number of the U-Joint you find. But like it says above, if the Speedo Gear is on wrong it won't go in. It would work the same way if one tire was on a sheet of ice or was up in the air. Can't get driveshaft back in front. I've never heard of one not going right back together, but with the seal out of the way, the only obvious place it can hang is on the edge of the tailshaft sleeve bearing. Location: WARRENSBURG, MISSOURI, 64093. Yeah, I know that all too well, lol.
Vehicle: Nissan d21 1991. The transmission bolts are all out, I am going to drop it tomorrow morning and see if I can get a better view of what's going on. Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:32 pm. I did that once... only I wrapped a chain around the shaft and passed it under the rearend. When im putting in my replacement the shaft wont "click" into the gearbox. Tried it today, with the smallest metal hammer I had... Why does a drive shaft go bad. a real dinky little it worked like a charm. Then he said it would finally go in. Since one axle shaft is gone on your vehicle, this allows the power to go out through it the brokens side of the differential without moving the vehicle. Check out this Link for Correct Assembly. Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 11:33 pm. 93 Hardbody King Cab Ka24e. Although it is easier/faster to check the yokes for twist. I will put that back on the truck, and then drive it to the shop and let them assess & rework/balance both shafts as needed. He says that you have to push the driveshaft a little to get the seal spring to open up.
The variable seems to be the new seal. The carrier bearing is at least available as a replacement so if you matched the U-Joint up you could re-use the shaft. 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. 12/1952 M100- Departed.
Anybody know if a transmission shop will repair it if I've done something to the spline? Location: Southern California. I have watch a few videos and they all do the same thing you are doing. These two things are related because of the differential. Maybe you want to try a Dremel with one of those little round sanding drums... |08-21-2015, 12:45 PM||# 11|.
The output shaft spins freely as it should, with nothing preventing it, but when a yoke is slid in as far as it will go, I can feel that it is rubbing something inside... The spring is on the other side of that seal and it pinches the seal ever so slightly to keep the trans fluid from seeping out and slinging all over the place. This was my first time doing this on any vehicle so I am definitely a rookie. I may as well, since I have this guy lying around waiting for a driveshaft to arrive. The output shaft has all the splines inplace.
You can pry them out another way, but if your not careful you can scratch the seal lip and that might cause it to leak. But when I looked I couldn't see anything that was blocking it when I push it in something very stiff stops it after being about a third of the way in. Replace the tail shaft seal. Welcome to Tacoma World! Be careful and don't push car off jack stands. Could a couple of guys who have A2s check their gap and let me know what they have? Still, I'm positive that I did the diff swap without needing to drop the driveshaft or disconnect anything apart from its connection to the diff. It's a soft enough material to have a burr on it.
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