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Disconnect the connection(the one that is held with the small metal clip) on fuel injector number 1. The cause of no spark can also be electrical. I put a new cap and rotor on, and now it runs like a champ. Aside from that, the only supplies you'll need are the hand tools for removing the ignition coil from the vehicle. 98 5.7L cranks but no start, new fuel pump, cap, and rotor. It's so strange to have spark and fuel and no start... when I wind it over I start to smell a bit of a fuel smell but no start. 7 Vortec No Spark from Coil. Thanks, and I will let you know what happens. Replace the affected plug if you see this or other signs of damage. I'm fairly (80%) confident it will fix the problem.
Bad connections to the ground can also create a no spark condition, though this is a less common cause. You could also use a small spray of starting fluid to see if it starts. At first I could hear it fire one or two cylidners but it got worse trying to crank it, and now no hint, it's like I have no spark, yet I have spark at the spark plugs? 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark will. Few facts first: - Put in a new fuel tank and pump, have 60 PSI on the rail. Due to how important the circuits are; it's so crucial that they can be fixed if they break. Incidentally a SBC will not run if it looses spark to 3 or more plugs.
The pressure gauge showed around 55 psi, which is fine for this truck. The one thing I haven't seen you mention that you've tested is for injector pulse. 7 tpi auto will not start. Not too much slack and had not slipped. Sp according to him it just shut off, and hadn't started since. The PO said he was driving it when it quit.
4 Vortec and ALL will start/run without the MAF/Air cleaner hooked to the throttle body. If it is blown then you'll need to find what shorted the pink wires to most of the sensors and O2 sensors. He does not have a lot of money to throw at unneeded parts (or a pro mechanic), so here's what we have for symptoms and have done... Replaced, because the mechanic said it was bad. I'm kinda stumped, I don't see why it all of a sudden it would not start after sitting. An old bad coil wire going to the distributor will cause a no spark problem. Intake EVAP vacuum lines are dry as when they are wet I know that to be a symptom of a bad fuel pressure regulator and so are black spark plugs. The engine started right back up on sunday. I also have not pulled the plugs and cleaned them (lack of a plug socket). Obviously some of the cylinders aren't firing. Can a timing set work its way out of time if not EXACTLY in the right position? 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark inside. In extreme cases, the (PCM) may have failed. Use your hand tools to remove the wiring harness from the ignition coils. Bad fuel injector power relay.
Simply put your Voltohmeter to continuity to ground on that fuse and wiggle wiring harness until your short to ground goes away. My only other thought is, pickup coil? I'm thinking my friend that has the scanner might have an older one. Before I parked it, it ran perfectly, no problems running or starting. I am under the weather with a stomach virus now (fun), but when I get better, I will first beat on the tank (what could it hurt), then try running a voltage test to the fuel pump while the engine is cranking to determine whether it is getting juice. 5.7 Vortec No Spark From Coil: Causes And Solutions. Here are the directions. Yeah... we are only getting AC Delco parts from now on... Consequently, there are two methods of checking electrical fuses that protect various components: - You can pull each fuse out and inspect it. I do notice it is really loud. It will start and run.
If you need some assistance with these checks, consider YourMechanic, as a certified technician can perform these checks and accurately diagnose your starting issue firsthand. Been replaced within the last 6 months. Hook it up with the fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the test port. 002" is less than the diameter of a human hair. I pray not, since that is a highly complicated system to deal with. I want to run a jumper all the way from the battery to the pump, and try starting it that way. It always been a little hard starting with long cranking times. Edit: by the way... 5.7 vortec no start has fuel and spark power. we picked up AC Delco plugs 41-979. I actually do not know how to test a bad opti. Both of which are under the upper plenum on a L31. There are no codes also i can poor gas in my throttle boddy and still no start. I would agree with Chrisbmo, I would say it is a sensor thing. TIP: Try unplugging the injectors; one at a time and crank the engine to see if it will start. Then the circuit, ignition switch and sensor tests I have compiled on my list from here and talking with Chevy techs and independent techs.
So, the injector fuse and relay are usually located; in the relay box or power distribution center in the engine compartment. Any advice appreciated. Like Most People, You Checked The Most Important Things First: - The fuel pump is running and delivering normal pressure to the engine. So I am at a complete loss here it should start or at least try to fire, We have all the ingredients. I got the wiring right it's the base timing I got to set. 1998 K1500 Vortec starts but won't run -- help. She cranks and almost wants to start.... but just can't get over that 'hump'. If the fuse is okay, try swapping the relay with another; to see if that gets voltage to the injectors. Bighaas79- I also don't have a problem with you, here's why I said what I did. My buddy just called and told me this. The spark needs to jump a half inch gap, and it needs to be a nice blue, not orange, spark at each plug. The former owner of this Burb, had the dist. It's under warranty.
He thinks this pulse train is not getting to the ECM, so it never re-energizes the fuel pump relay. I hit the schrader valve on the fuel line. Turns over but won't start. Which put me on the spark Track. 7l vortec engine 2wd CRANK NO START ISSUE. The following user(s) said Thank You: simperfi84. Thanks for the vid seabright. He has a friend who has the spider assembly off another Vortec that the guy says works fine. If the engine was previously running, it would be hard to condemn compression and ignition timing. Is this a bad fuel pressure regulator or a leak down there in the manifold? Location: Blountville, Tn. It started cranking for a few seconds longer on Wednesday.
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