Western Branch Diesel Charleston Wv
He had replaced the water pump impeller a couple of years before and this year the complete ignition system, points, condensers and coils (a 1975 15hp Evinrude). 107) has a hollow center in it and can be removed by simply threading a 1/4". The Johnson outboard's ignition system is the system that produces the spark to ignite the mixture of air and fuel and includes the spark plugs, battery, ignition coil and other switches and wiring.
9 hp, the finger is pointing to a white bearing ring. On theses single line fuel systems, the primer bulb acts as a manual fuel pump sucking the fuel (created by vacuum) up and into the fuel pump. HOw can you tell if it's running lean or rich? I have heard of one of these motors that would start fine but would run only at full speed and then would need some choke to keep it running. Outboards for house brands such as Atlas Royal (Atlas Tire stores), Atlas Supply sold at Esso and others, Spiegle Department. Also check the pinion and overrunning clutch. If it is dry and a gray color, that is good from that standpoint. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start a new. But you can see the clean up bandsanding of the plate to remove any corrosion. Wedging is that you will need to force the lower unit down and the water. During each step of production multiple quality control checks are performed to insure each and every part lasts for years to come. Click on the above thumbnails for larger picture|. The actual gap should be 7/16" to 1/2" for the electronic ignition and 1/4" for the points and coil type, you can adjust it to what ever gap you want to the aluminum plate on top.
Another thing to look for that is many times overlooked, is the neoprene O-Ring (#0334913) on the inside of the fuel line connectors. One has a WIDE tooth that has to mesh with the other gear that is missing a tooth. When I say detective work, it is just that, you need to know what requirements are to make the engine run and be able to go thru a check-list. Also what I found was the "valve seat inserts" are made in a different internal color, these colors use a different tension opening spring, (car inner tube version is overly strong in comparison) so the inserts may need to be matched with the gauge. Snap ring #65 in the shaft groove for a 9. The pivot nut (#83) (shown in the pictures in the #7 section below) is really only a jam nut locking the bolt it is threaded onto from rotating in the arm itself when the handle is raised or lowered. By then measuring how much is in there and subtracting it from the tank capacity, you can know how much oil to mix. To need to be sure to vent this auxiliary tank however. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start engine. Here I had replaced both coils, filed the points considerably, pulled the head while I was there and cleaned the carbony pistons, and lightly honed the cylinders, where the compression was 70 and 74#. If it is real tight, then possibly the previous owner knew there was a leak somewhere, he was trying to plug it by TIGHTENING this plug. 38) No Water Coming From the Overboard Water Indicator or Motor Getting Hot: This is covered by an article all by itself. I got caught in this once, guy brought a motor in, it ran at a idle fine, but speed it up to about mid throttle it would lope, (miss-then restart repeatedly). The prop shaft could not be pulled out, in that the internals appeared to be effected by saltwater so the whole gearbox/lower unit was also scrap.
Of the two, Clymer seems to be better, however Seloc has a better item by item (carbs, ignition, gearboxes etc. ) Miraculously, the cylinder wall was not scored badly and only a good honing job was required to clean it up. If the crankcase seals or gaskets leak, the crankcase can not hold the pressure or vacuum to operate the reed valves behind the carburetor, the engine will not run well, if at all. Flywheel gear teeth. Some did not even have a kill button, but relied on retarding the timing plate to the point that the motor died, OR, just choke it to death at the slow speed. Have both spark plugs out also helps lower the compression. Now if there is water in the fuel of the carburetor that has not been drained, the result can look like the picture below. Any help would be appreciated thank you. It is the experience of many that the pre 1977 OMC 9. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start. The lower set of photos are from a 1949 Elgin 2 1/2hp motor. When in this condition, it will usually run, but at about only up to 1/2 throttle. Shift the gearshift into reverse to pull the.
A compression test will not show is a secondary compression which on a 2 cycle motor the crankcase must alternate under pressure and vacuum. Advise is when doing a on the water test, is to never run downriver. However you may see some of the smaller 2 to 4 hp newer motors still using the magneto ignition, probably because of the expense of the electronics. However you WILL NOT find any factory recommended compression readings, probably because of so many variables for a non electric start motor. The other method is to pull the twist grip off, tip the lever rearward, slide the shaft forward, realign the teeth and reinstall the retainer screw in the twist grip. In the older outboard motor identification, many were made by the more well known manufacturers, but sold through (common at that time) mail order companies like Sears or Montgomery Wards. More on this farther down in this article. West Marine may be OK for impellers, but I doubt if they know anything beyond what the book or computer says. This motor did not have the original powerhead, so the flywheel's tapered hole was not an exact mate to the crankshaft taper. The one thing mentioned in some of the above information is that if a gearbox is damaged as seen below, AND the engine is OK, you could have all the indications of a seized powerhead, because on these motors (usually) the clutch is in the gearbox as a slider between the forward and reverse gears. If in doubt of what to buy new ones, take your old one to a automotive parts. Here was a situation that after traveling for an hour to get to the bay, I had no high speed power, simply would not rev up. Here is where you may need the help of the wife or a fishing buddy.
Primer stays hard and pumping it does not help. The upper one has what appears to be salt corrosion under the reed and the plate. Pull the boat out, or at home in a tank). Where do I go from here? It could be tight enough to hold for say a trolling speed, but if you rev it higher, then the hub may slip inside the bushing, causing something just like a clutch on an older car slipping. The 86 to 2006 OMC cable throttle type are not usually prone to this problem.
Sample the fuel from the fuel return manifold and check fuel filter. This fuel line assembly can be connected backwards, meaning the tank end can be attached to the motor end, but no fuel can pass thru. Try to rotate the prop, what you are trying to determine is that the problem is either in the powerhead or the gearcase. While you are holding this ball in, pump the primer bulb. Or farther from the launch than you can easily row or paddle back.