Western Branch Diesel Charleston Wv
My fuel pump is not clicking when I try to start the car. Purple which I think is + for sending unit i don't know. It looks like it melted from heat (dripping plastic) but perhaps its dissolving. Anybody know where the ground could be if not by the E-brake. Of course, it bounced back away as well, leaving everything fine. Couldn't get power to the fuel pump. Well, i do not have the 2013 and my 2010 file is screwing up so it leaves me with 2009. here is what i think may be happening.
No, Jeep wiring is notoriously for $#! I need to know which wire out of the four that plug into the fuel pump is the ground wire for the fuel pump not the sending unit. Don't want to drive it til I know what the problem is and it is fixed. Currently, page one- No start. Maybe, just for the hell of it, replace the fuse with another. Not Running - Advanced. After removing tank and then pump, we were able test the pump by energizing and grounding to a 12 volt battery.
At first I thought it was just the old rusty bolt that grounds the fuel pump. If not, look at the diagram, and verify each wire for the relay circuit is OK. I think the relay switchs power, cause even though I had it jumped to ground it didnt start till I turned on the key and gave it power. Remove the bolt and sand the area so it bright bare metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... I want to put a switch in the ground source to the relay on my fuse box, so if the swith or connection would ever fail it would kill the pump, avoiding any saftey risk. You say it is a ground wire not a bonding wire. Therefore, it is recommended to upgrade the fuel pump wiring anytime an aftermarket fuel pump is installed, even if you are still running a stock turbo. I just don't understand why the test probe causes the fuel pump relay to click and pumps simutaneously come on simply by sticking the sharp end into the brown wire that already has voltage headed to the inertia switch? Cab forward, I have gone through most if not all the wiring- Head light harness C101 delete. Just can't figure out what yet. You will want to place the 30amp fuse into the fuse holder when everything is done.
Not sure I fully understand what you're saying. If it does not, and grounding the pump turns it on, you cannot just ground the wire or the pump will run 24x7. As long as no air in in the tank, not much can happen, liquid gasoline can not burn. I just dont know where right now. The black wire from the relay and black wire coming from the fuel pump sender should be connected to one ring terminal and grounding at the below pictured location. Still was happening randomly.
Terms of use | Privacy policy. You will have a constant 12v power coming into the relay (red wire) and a switched 12v out of the relay (yellow), which will connect to the power wire (red) on the fuel sending unit/pump. I know that there should not be power coming from the ground side. To test the relay is working, turn your key to POS. Lists PN 75303-07 for the harness. 94. so fcm, instead, should i use the harness side original 12v to power relay, and completely replace the fuel pump side to 10 gauge? It does not appear to be a bonding wire but ground. TERMS AND CONDITIONS. Eliminated all unnecessary wiring. I want to check all of the wires in my Fuel Pump circuit and check anything that can cause my FP to go bad. So... 10 gauge from battery to relay, and 10 gauge from relay to fuel pump? I have spent the summer tinkering around with it and have put on a host of new sensors, engine components and so one. Funny thing is, it's like the opposite of your problem - my f/p cycles with key on whenever i apply any kind of lights.
The blue signal wire and yellow power-out wire are short, so you'll want to place the relay close to the fuel pump connector. Take your new ground wire, preferably at least 14 gauge and 12 to 18 inches long as needed, strip it about 3/4″, and wrap it around the exposed part of the harness plug wire. Ignore my other reply.. Theres a few grounds. Went to test his battery. On a nissan the ground wire goes back to the harness. Sportster/Buell Model #2: 1200CX. Three wires: 1-power for pump. I'm attempting posting a you've seen wahat an overheated wire looks that's this—-like the ground wire is overloaded. And now my battery is drained from trying to start it so many times. I replaced the fuel pump as well. I'm thinking the bonding wire is burning up because the proper ground wire is open/broke (not grounded), causing the load to be put through the bonding wire, in a way it's not really designed to do. When i wedge the black wire behind the metal tab thing (what it was connected to before) i can turn the key and hear the fuel pump run and the gas guage works. Cut the pink wire, leaving a short length of wire going to the plug, so that you can repair the cut should you ever want to return the car to stock.
Check the fuel tank itself for chassis ground. How can I reconnect the ground wire now? Edit: sorry - I see in your original post that you applied 12V to pin "g" of the ALDL connector -. Tool requirements are minimal. They ground under the dash on a support bar just the passenger side and above the heater control box. It wastes our time to have to search back through your old posts to find that answer. Fuel pump wont cut on and gas hand is past full= ground issue.. so where it at. So here's the thing, were does it get it's ground? The wires have a three pin weatherpack connector, and are located on the front drivers side of the gas tank. New cables, new grounds. The tank switch simply jumpers across (shorts out) one of the two resistors in the array in order to change the voltage level of that speedo signal... (it's a low current function)... That blk/wht wire is the ground - shouldn't have power. I tried to put 12v at the fuse pump clips but no luck. You may have a bad connector, or maybe corroded.
I know what wires you are talking about though. Let me know of any questions.
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