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2 HP Dust Collector. Since the tools are separated by 10 to 20 feet I needed more power than the Harbor Freight dust collector could provide. Attaching this piece made the cover a little stiffer. The longest run is 41', using a handheld anemometer, here are the results. I wanted to maintain airflow. Removing impeller form Harbor Freight DC - General Woodworking. If you use coarse screws for PVC connections, this also allows for tying in grounding. I screwed it on one side in case I ever need to remove the gate or if the fit becomes an issue and I need to sand it down, I have that option.
A dust collection system is composed of a motor and impeller that sucks sawdust into a collection bag. For now I will use a 6x4x4 splitter, but long term idea is to rip out the dual 4" system, and run a single 6" main, and reduce to 4" or 2. You want to stop any air leakage to maximize efficiency. I oriented the gate in the closed position before gluing the handle, and I did the same when screwing the other handle in. 7 So if you do this realize that you are putting additional stress on the motor, which may end up in its premature death.. My unit is 8yrs old and I would be happy to replace it. 5" sections (or a coupler depending on your setup). I was going to split the pipe to collect from the base and top of the router table, but didn't have the space. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrade your browser. I am using a Hydrofarm AC6F 6" flange that will need to be drilled to match the Harbor Freight mounting holes. Removing Current Impeller.
I was finding it was inconvenient because I was constantly having to unhook it from my table saw and then wheel it across the room to hook it up to my miter saw and then unhook it from my miter saw and wheel it back across the garage to the table saw. I tested it out and it was nice to have it work just how I wanted and not be near as loud as my old shop vacuum. A mandatory upgrade is the filter. Using center punch, and supported on an anvil of some sort like a machinists vice, dimple each screw hole location in the new flange, This will keep your drill bit from walking off. I have to switch it on and make sure the correct gates are open. The process went quickly. HF Dust Collector Upgrade Step #3. My gates don't have a track, but I do need space on each side of the gate for open and closed orientation. 5" or coupler cut in half. So, like many, I have the 2HP Harbor Freight Dust collector, upgraded to a Wynn 35A filter.
Alright, enough talk, here is how I upgraded my Harbor Freight Dust Collector. There is an increased startup amp draw, but it is not huge. That will be the last step, if necessary. Nicer ones are more expensive, but you can build your own that work well and don't break the bank. Rikon Service #: 877-884-5167 M-F, 8-5 EST. The swap was easy, remove 12 screws for the impeller cover, remove a reverse threaded hex bolt and washer. I started with a galvanized trash can, this dictates the size of the baffle. Step 5: Dust Collector Installation. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrade parts. All of the online tests of this modification alone show increased CFM of at least 35%, and static pressure (vacuum) increases of at least 10%. 5" 1/4" MDF spacers/sides. Started out with the infamous HF 2 hp dust collector, which isn't bad for the price. Caulk to seal joints, gaps, etc. I sketched up a few iterations and while the first few didn't have space around the perimeter, the final version did as I needed a ledge for the baffle to sit on a trash can.
I sanded them lightly with a sander until the fit was better. The filter attached to the bracket with screws from the top. Since I was doing electrical work in the shop at that point anyway, it wasn't a major issue. The Wynn filter is designed to retrofit to various dust collectors. I used air tool oil as it was right where I was working. You could get away without caulking the joints unless you notice suction. I added a tab on one of the back corners to prevent the baffle from wanting to turn. The gasket may stick to the flange, or the impeller housing. Harbor freight dust collector impeller upgrade kit. I have a cyclone for chip collection, it works well but I do end up with a few inches of fine powder in the bag after a few weeks of running. Blast gates restrict air flow to one tool, otherwise you wouldn't get enough suction. One of the big things I learned midway in this project is that if you're adding dust collection, chances are you will need to put it on a separate breaker. The scissor jack lifts the trash can tight against the baffle which is hung from the motor.
Forward inclines provide more flow but lose power when pressure increases. This model is no longer available, and Wynn has gotten expensive recently. The hose doesn't fit over the SDD inlet. 1/2″ Sheet Metal Screws. 25" everywhere else.
The EVA tension fits inside the pipe. The top has a 5" hole for the dust collector motor. The baffle is roughly the same. This meant the filter/bag could not fit in the corner. 5 micron Wynn 35a spun bond poly (washable) cartridge filter. So, I started the upgrade by removing the 5″ DC hose and the connections at both sides.
Now, with something like 600 percent more surface area on the exhaust, the collection bag still swirls the fine dust nicely and is inflated but is quite relaxed. I selected 4" PVC pipe due to cost and availability. The next step is to attach the cover to the housing. With the motor mounted to the wall and the way my trash can is mounted, I didn't need the springs. If you want a bunch of fine dust to suck up to try the new mod out, don't worry about it. Dave's Workshop Blog: Central Machinery (Harbor Freight) 2 HP dust collector upgrades. Decided to run metal pipe with gates to all tools & needed to upgrade the dc so there wouldn't be as much dust in the air.
My Shop is attached to my garage. After inserting the PVC pipe, ensure the blade operates and wipe away any excess caulk. I am looking to get more airflow out of the DC and am wondering about an impeller and output upgrade, and have some questions... #1. I used the supplied HF pipe to connect the impeller to the collector bag in a straight run that is ~4" long, avoiding the longer curve of the out of the box setup. 1/2" MDF for the Gate Body and handles. A quarter of an inch is inside the channel on the top and bottom plate. The trash can is mounted on blocks to get it to the right height that matches my pipe which had to clear my nearby counter.
1/4" MDF for the blades and spacers. My 4" PVC pipe runs right into the Thien baffle, no turns. I am looking forward to the connivence and having a cleaner shop. Any branches need to be wyes, not tees. Once particles accumulate they can be easily cleaned by emptying the bag. The next step was to remove the woodruff key from the old impeller and put it in the new one.
I haven't fully integrated it with ducting and a permanent housing yet, but I've made some modifications such as a Thein baffle and a 55 gallon drum for chip collection. I reinstalled the center bolt. I boxed out the other equipment to increase suction at the blade. After removing the very stiff 5″ hose that came with the DC I removed the screws holding the bottom of the housing on. Coat the inside of the bore and keyway of the new impeller with a light oil. 25" adapter caulked into the gate. There are 2 that I know of, one from Rikon that has been next to impossible to get, and when available costs almost as much as the dust collector, and one from Wen, the 3403-22 Turbofan. 5" flex pipe, not realizing the mismatch in size. Using proper PPE drill the holes. I measured the nut/washer height to exactly 4. I'm cheap and don't want to pay that much. The brackets are made from 2x4s with a bracket roughly every 48". The standoffs the original poster used are a bit on the big side, but the idea is right there.
Clark Filter P#1565938 (Similar – Cartridge Dust Collector Filter). Connect the ground wire's conductor to the dust collector's metal frame or housing. It's roughly at 42" above the floor.