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It manifests itself as a strong vibration when you release the clutch to get the car moving from rest. Instead try to depresse the clutch arm on the tranny by hand (or with a pipe) to see if the problem is inside the clutch housing or else were. The slave cylinder push rod is removed easily leaving the clutch lever jammed in the end of the clutch housing. What's the difference between a 'Cable Clutch' and a 'Hydraulic Clutch'? One would think this would be an obvious issue that would be noticed immediately, but it occurs more often than you would know. If it moves the push rod, your slave is OK. Be careful not to push too far though! 5) Bad Clutch Cable. When you grease the clutch you need to hold the pedal down, and give it about 15 pumps of grease to get the lube on the slide sleeve. I ended up with a rock hard pedal that would not disengage the clutch. The clutch pivot ball is designed to make the operation of the clutch feel as smooth as possible. However, a chirping sound will be heard when the clutch pedal is released if the throwout bearing is defective or worn out. But if the clutch pivot ball were to get worn out or damaged, the smoothness of the feel will start to fade.
Be sure the cross shafts are greased, you should be able to move the slack in the linkage easily, If not you have to find out why? Let us know the outcome. As the throwout loses lubrication, the bearing wears out, and the spinning power diminishes as a result. Take of the clutch slave and get a friend (aka goon who can follow commands) and tell them to push the clutch SLOWLY, and feel if the slave piston moves. If this is confirmed, replacing the defective cylinder should solve the problem. It appears to be ok from visual inspection, it slides along the transmission shaft easily, the springs are all intact. Some slave hydraulic clutch cylinders are located inside the gearbox housing. However, if you feel that the clutch pedal is way too hard to press, then there could definitely be something wrong within the system.
It's my understanding that when that line broke, everything essentially just stopped. Several causes can lead the clutch pedal to be rock-solid, such as a failed or damaged part of the clutching system. Squirt plus gas, or WD40 over the joint, where the push rod meets the clevis pin. I have the same issue. There are multiple hydraulic lines that convey pressure from the driver's foot to the various sections of the vehicle. I fired up the engine and heard a knocking sound which appeared to be coming from the external slave cylinder area. Before diving too deep into troubleshooting, verify that your clutch pedal has been adjusted properly. The clutching system is featured to work under a release bearing that brings separation between the clutch and pressure plate. Broken, bad, or damaged Throwout bearing.
I literarily stood on the pedal and the flex line to the slave burst. Question: before I commit to pulling the tranny anything on the install that would cause a rock solid pedal? 2) Should the clutch fork return after being depressed manually (like a spring) with the external slave cylinder removed from the bell housing (mine didn't. If any of these objects were to get caught below the pedals, it could cause trouble pushing the clutch.
If this happens, you won't be able to press down the pedal completely. All has been refitted and thought I was on the last leg of the rebuild. Replacing the pivot ball is a relatively simple process that can be completed in just a few minutes. '85 Porsche 911 Targa. This spring is what keeps the pedal in the up position when you're not using it. Blocked or Pinched Hydraulic Hose. These are all located under the hood of the car. When pressing on the clutch shaft, it might become as hard as a rock due to malfunctions. The shop is thoroughly confused about how to replace this "custom" line and thinks a stock line will just burn up. He said he has seen it only once before but I'd suspect that it can be more common if not mounted with locking nuts. You want to keep the area free of debris and items, because if anything were to get below your brake pedal, it could have a much more disastrous effect. The trans should slide right on, as long as it is lined up right and nothing is getting pinched between the bell housing and block. Sometimes this could be caused due to a stretched cable (in cable operated clutches) or a faulty Master or Slave Cylinder (in hydraulically operated clutches). I have tried a block of wood as a lever but cant get it to release.
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