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Maybe somebody really cranked down on this nut in the past and damaged something. However, it if it is a stock engine, and you've checked for fuel pressure issues, the CTS and MAP would be my first guess. Thundrecougar said: With cross counts it's mostly important that there are some.
It didn't blow the ECM when connected like this before so I don't think it will now. I know the OP said his cat was gone, but for $40 or so the high-flo aftermarket one is a good deal, and really cleans up the stink of the exhaust. I replaced my injectors in my 88 4. I got the fuel pressure gauge today and here are the numbers. The regulator only regulates when excess fuel is flowing out of it. I don't know, wondering). Never started again, i unhooked injector, sprayed carb fluid to counter the gas and i could get it to run. But modifying the stock one to be adjustable might be easy enough anyway. If that is the case there is no need to advance to #2. PCM said it may be bad and sending erroneous signals. Turn on key and throttle body floods out continuous flow of gas could it be the egr valve. Throttle body flooding out continuously flow of gas could. The O2 volts bounce all over the place, from. Southern tier New York. When fuel injectors are clogged or have failed electrically, your vehicle may not perform the way it should.
I am working on a 1991 Chevrolet S10 2. Ok. disconnected the est disributor harness and light went goes to pin b on ignition module. Tbi spraying too much fuel video. Taking 4wheelers out and can't haul the trailer. This specialty service will help ensure your vehicle is able to produce the right amount of power and get better fuel efficiency. I also had a problem with the loaner fuel tester - if I make the schrader valve finger tight, the valve is closed and the gauge is not getting any pressure. Join Date: Oct 2005. Now if you have a good +12v signal on 10 and 15 and the headlights don't change the voltage much, then check the voltage on pins 10 and 15 but this time use either pin 13 of C2 (Black) or pin 15 of C1 (Tan?? ) Replaced the entire lower half of the motor and rebuilt the original GT40 heads.
I modified the internal regulator in my TBI unit, and ran an external adjustable regulator. I do know on the 84, that GM used the starter solenoid stud as the power distribution center for the car. Location: BA, Argentina. Tbi spraying too much fuel lines. Tbi injector overflowing with fuel. Is it spraying to much or is the fuel leaking out sonewhere? We took it out on the water and it was running great, then just shut off... I had tried to pull codes put light just flashed rapidly.
The whole idea of electronics is the components will change their internal resistance to give the desired output (very simplified). It certainly could be that the pump can't keep up, but try the cheap thing first! On a side note, when I tried to restart it let out a backfire so loud the geese all flew away, and the cap on top of the muffler blew off. This results in a drip that creates a misfire. Normally your pump is moving more fuel than the injectors and the excess is flowing out of the regulator and pressure is regulated to that setpoint and stays steady. Unplug the injector wire and then try again. I kept the rubber diaphragm, but removed the spring, and I think I fabricated a little plate to stop the diaphragm from being forced out the vent holes. You will also have to hot wire the fuel pump to run with the ECM unplugged since the ECM is what generates the signal to turn on the fuel pump relay. Too Much Fuel, Fuel Injector Problems. Everything is new) I mean whoa, almost overflowing for a quick second. SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said: Both pumps provide about 67 psi.
What could be the problem? I am fighting injectors flooding big block chevy in 93 rv. Other than a slightly lower idle it didn't change a thing. If you see fuel on all spark plugs, this could indicate another problem; most likely, your engine is flooded. TBI Sprays Too Much Gas: Instead of a Cone of Mist, I Get Niagra. Since you've changed the distributor you can't just check and see if the base timing has changed to check the timing chain but you can grab the balancer and see how far you can rotate the crank before you feel resistance from the cam. There are a lot of parts, but I can't picture what the fuel module might be. What is the most likely cause? It is possible that an EGR valve problem could cause the fuel system to run rich, but typically not cause fuel to leak. So yeah the ICM should show a resistance between the Tan/Black and ground since the electronic relay is across them.
Slotted and Philips bits for general purpose applications Star bits for mobile phones and other electronic applications Convenient bit storage... I'll have to look at the closed/open loop. If you don't see that, either the fuel pressure is too low, or the injector is defective. Clogged filter can restrict how *much* fuel it can provide at 13psi. In the past, vehicles were manufactured to spray fuel into the upper intake manifold to mix with air before entering the combustion chamber for ignition. 10-13 psi is within spec. You can find this cylinder by doing a power balance test. The TBI could regulate that pump just fine.
At one time I owned a CIS fuel injected VW Rabbit, so I have more experience on this topic than I'd really would have liked … lol. Any time your vehicle is experiencing a leak, it should be inspected by a technician right away, especially fuel leaks. Check all the wiring connections, grounds etc first. If you can adapt a fuel pressure test gauge in the fuel system it's acceptable. Temp readings look good. Is the pressure regulator referenced to the intake manifold, or just sitting there? We may be getting somewhere. So i jumpered the hot to fuel pump and now the check engine light works. Also helps to maintain injectors and other components within the fuel system. If either of these elements isn't present, your engine will struggle to function or even start. If unplugging the wire stopped the injector from spraying - plug it back on and confirm the spray comes back. But yeah, if you need a sending unit, then I could see the price.
Yup…Ethanol does a nice number to the interiors of older cars that weren't designed to deal with a constant amount of E10 fuel. It was in a very bad shape, all soft, and kind of crumbling. New fuel pump fixed it. Replace them both, unless the "sock" has collapsed inside the tank or you have another flo restriction somewhere you really shouldn't see that much pressure variation key on engine off, under idle or WOT. Replaced the leaky injector and my truck is running better, although I did notice the engine tremble a little at idle. Okay some how relay grounding out. Hoping for some assistance because my local marina (Candlewood East Marina in Brookfield, CT) won't help. The rubber fuel lines external to the tank seem to be ok. This is a simple test to tell you if all cylinders are putting out the same amount of power. Tps looks good, no dead spots, reads wide open. One sanity check when I have fuel problems is just remove the fuel hose near where it connects to the fuel injection system input, set up a good sized container/hoses/etc to catch any fuel flow, and run the starter a few seconds while watching how much gasoline flows in that line. You might also try pinching off the fuel return line briefly with the engine running. Prolonged fuel starvation can lead to internal engine damage or damage to the catalytic converter.
I have never encountered this before. And if the filter is more than a year old, replace it. Replace fuel injector tree. Now i'm stuck at the module. I had to open the knurled nut a bit before the valve would open, at which point a little gas would also leak out.