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An ounce of prevention is worth two or three pounds of cure when it comes to finish application. Tru Oil is the standard for finishing gunstocks and is synonymous with the term "gunstock finish. " How long before I can put the guitar together? A: Room temperature is ideal for applying Tru-Oil.
How to coat gun stock with Tru-oil finish? Does anyone here have any advice on the matter? You will lose the shiny-as-glass surface. Let's start by examining this claim. Another thing to keep in mind is that Tung Oil finishes are prone to getting dirty since dirt still penetrates through the wood trim. Hi all, I was just curious, I've heard that it takes a long time for Tru Oil to cure, up to 3 months or so. My experience with finishes is that if it's not hard in 3 months, it's not going to get hard.
After 2 hours, I use a bit of 0000 steel wool to very lightly smooth the surface then repeat until I get the desired finish. My 1st guitar I finished with Tru Oil and the rosewood never dried. I have not been able to identify which species are worse than others, I've had pieces from the same larger block of wood act differently. It still has a bit more sheen than I planned but it's growing on me. If you go over a section that has started to tack up (which happens pretty fast) you create a rough surface. It is safe for food, non-toxic, and for the environment. For millennia, oil has been used to treat stone as well as give boats and other wooden things a water-resistant gloss. Is Tung Oil The Best? Bachelor of Arts Degree from Arizona State University.
It looks fine the next day, but I can see unevenness. There is a reason why Tru Oil is preferred over Tung Oil and also why you would want to add it as a finish on top of the Tung Oil finish; both are used to protect the wood from moisture, but Tru Oil offers more resistance because of the stacked layers that prevent the wood from absorbing any moisture. The first coat was very heavy as per instructions. That's been my experience. The very last step is to let the finish cure for about a week. Just remember two things; - The oil needs to be wholly cured first. Wipe the piece down with a clean cloth or blow it with an air nozzle to remove all dust from the surface. Allow the piece to dry for a whole day, then lightly steel wool with 0000 grade wool. You shouldn't need to wait anywhere near 24 hours before applying another coat. They have creative ways of getting their products to dry quicker than normal, like a controlled temperature room that is warm with very low humidity. Excellent for Guitars. So don't go overboard with this by scratching up the finish. Lightgauge - Posted - 12/21/2016: 04:10:04. Q: Can I add linseed to increase dry time?
I always cut it back after the last coat with 0000 steel wool, blow it off with my air compressor, wipe it down with a tack cloth, and apply a healthy coat of Johnson Paste wax for floors. I have made banjos from ash, walnut and mahogany among other woods and I find that if I apply 5 coats of Tru Oil and sand lightly after the 2nd and 4th coats with 400 grit sandpaper I get a finish that is smooth and moderately shiny, which is what I'm after. So, whenever you check out a resource that covers Danish Oil, remember that everything it says about the product might not be true for the specific Oil you get. While the differences between the two finishes help identify which types of projects each product is suited for, the similarities between Tru Oil and Danish Oil let you know the instances where either choice works. As you more through the grits, end with finer sandpaper like 220 or 320. Tung Oil Needs Regular Re-Treating.
Around 4-5 days should be enough time. You should finish with finer sanding, like 220 or 320 grit. Tru-Oil is a type of finish that is commonly used for guitar necks, bodies, and other wood surfaces. Tru Oil has a very specific recipe, with 11% linseed or Tung oil and an amalgamation of different varnishes and thinners making up the rest of its contents.
Don't rub it in, just let the wood absorb it. When apply to these types of woods try using mineral spirits. Connecticut g1, Perazzi TM1. Tru-oil vs. Linseed oil. The pad is then used to transfer the finish to the piece, and whenever you need more finish all you have to do is repeat the process on the mouth of the bottle again. I've also read of the other major school of thought, that a thicker coat should be used and then scrubbed off with steel-wool; I've scrubbed off an overly-gummed handle with scotchbrite pads, but I'm not sure how much a help that is in the greater scheme of rendering it truly water-resistant. More importantly, it helps make wood more water-resistant. I make up a fresh fad for each application and try to be meticulous about applying it in a clean and dust-free method, to the extreme of taking a shower and donning clean clothes before a new coat of finish is applied. I know it needs a couple of weeks to fully cure before polishing but we just want to get it put together and test it out so I'm just looking for realistic timelines.
Each component should be added to a glass jar and thoroughly mixed. Half a teaspoon of each would be more than enough. Joined: Sunday 25 March 2007, 07:28 am. You should not see any thickness in the finish on the surface, is should almost look like you got the wood wet, but it all soaked into the surface. Full gloss and it will be near to that 20 figure. It offers a very robust finish that is quite simple to fix if damaged.
Perhaps you could too. By the third day it was done, leveled, polished and buffed to full gloss. Hhunter44 - Posted - 12/21/2016: 10:05:06.