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I note that the new line, where it is supposed to connect to the cylinder port, appears pretty straight when held next to the old one, and the fitting slides back/forth without snagging. You torque it to a certain spec and it locks. It occurred to me that lapping the flare on the brake line could get the tube to seat with the fitting. Sometimes there is debris on the treads, sometimes it is a matter of goofing with it till the threads line up, been there, feel the pain! One of the most unnerving things that can happen in motoring is that you brake and one or more of... We're making the ultimate video course. Assuming it is a flared fitting. If not I'd copy an original (or get someone to make it if you can't).
More details: I test-fitted the new line and fitting to the old brake master cylinder port with success. Hi everyone, I fitted a brand new dual-circuit brake master cylinder today, and went about fastening on the brake line unions. I so miss being able to ring him up and ask him how to do something. There is virtually no way to assemble the hydraulic circuit on the car without introducing a bubble of air into the connection, so you have to flush and bleed. First work the pipe roughly into position, passing it through any bulkheads or around obstructions. 03-09-2013, 10:21 PM. In addition to considering the range of fitting types, it's pertinent to consider their finishes. Yeah I ordered some tubing to practice on along with my bubble flare tool and fittings, haha. General Ford Ranger Discussion. This isn't supposed to be easy, these are brake lines after all and the tolerances have to be very tight. A little blast of heat from a torch can help too. Might make a new one. You will need a double flare on the pipe. 05-27-2009 03:09 PM.
A useful technique is to catch the discarded fluid in a container so you have an accurate measure of how much you've removed; it helps with the cleanup, too. Use a double flare tool to flare your brake line ends. If you leave brake fluid on your paint, it'll wrinkle your paint and make it peel. Some newer Toys may "require" a special tool for bleeding, but you may be able to get away with the above procedure if you know what you're doing. I know it's a total PITA which is why I have zero interest in trying it, but I figured there had to be at least some very tedious way to do it with the engine in, or at most taken off its mounts and moved a bit. I worked on it for a couple hours and gave up. The pipe will probably be held to the car's underside or to components by metal tags or plastic clips. Be sure to provide enough length for so the line has room to move with the forks or swing arm. When you have ignored the above tip and used a (gasp! ) Ok, so I finally got around to attempting this after practicing on some spare line. Compression fittings are designed for lower-pressure lines such as those used for fuel, compressed air, and water.
Because of this, they are utterly unsuited to use with brake lines. If you have you have Herculean hand strength like Stefan you can do this as he does free handed in the old video. If any of the plastic clips break, make sure you get new ones to fit with the new pipe. One of my good car friends, Martin, died about 5 years ago. You can see the lapping marks around the flare which indicates that you will have a perfect seal upon assembly. 03-16-2013, 03:46 PM. Did you enjoy reading our blog? Most new brake fluids won't boil until they reach a temperature of 400/ to 450/F. Step #11: Now repeat steps 1 through 7 for the caliper side. The actual thread on those nuts are 3/ if you hold up a 3/8-24 bolt up and the threads look like they match, it is for sure a 3/16 tube inverted flare.
The tube nuts for each part they are meant to thread into are also shaped according to the flare they are securing. You could end up flushing the system with brake fluid that's worse than what's in the car. Make sure full suspension travel and steering lock are unaffected, and that the hoses aren't stretched or trapped in any way. If you still need tomorrow Ill grab my tap and die set and we'll figure it out.... On this point, though, you may find the following strange case: Sometimes a brake hose starts to delaminate on the inside, allowing a rubber flap to function almost like a check valve. I will be paying attention for quite awhile believe me. You should now have a brake system with a good solid feel to it. A further difficulty with vacuum bleeding is that the threads around the bleeder screw are not airtight. Bends that you'll briefly consider going into business as a brake line. Wipe the pipe clean of any oily deposits, then run your hands along the pipe to feel for damage - in particular if the pipe feels flattened or corroded at any point. Below is a photo of the lines and junction in question. You might want to tow the car to wherever the customer wants, too. Then close the nipple before releasing the brake lever/pedal.
No joy in trying to thread the nut in. And a larger diameter that replaces the banjo with a male brake line connection. The other option, a huge pita, would be to unbolt it from the MC, remove the line from the car, put on the fitting, then put it back. What do you think, I can`t see reducing the one fitting from a 12mm to 10 mm would hurt. The other oddity is that the ABS pump and the MC are both female threaded, so I'll likely need male M10x1mm to AN or something so I can use more generic lines. They were turns of the wrench which would have been 1/4 turns probably. If you bend new lines, make sure that they can similarly flex. It was actually a lot of fun, although if I had some 7/8" hex stock it would have taken under an hour.
So don't keep drawing fluid through forever. Can you determine which thread is rounded, or are both rounded? I can live by that and will GLADLY walk away from this! Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world. Kinda like computers (my specialty) You may have a certain way you do things on a computer to access an application or program, but I may know of a shortcut or quicker way to do it, and you won't know about it until I show you. Take the cap off the reservoir and open the bleed nipple on one of the brakes (any brake if the braking system is single circuit, but if the system is dual circuit open one of the nipples on the appropriate half of the system). There should be a smooth, concentric finish. Before you start work, decide whether you need to keep the old pipes as a guide for shaping the new ones. Oddly enough I ve found that an adjustable wrench can sometimes be the tool of choice, because you can crank it down to zero slop on the nut. Because today's hydraulic systems are so much more extensive.
Bear in mind that the fluid in the reservoir may overflow as a result. And when it's compressed, that bubble becomes smaller, still harder to flush from the system and still more likely to stick in place due to local surface tension in the fluid. Slowly pump the brake pedal to the floor several times. Single flares are insufficient, end of story. Have a container ready to catch the fluid and pump the brake pedal to force the fluid out.
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