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This was caused by that wire protruding too high and the flywheel magnet boss rubbed through the wire's insulation, effectively shorting out and killing that cylinder. If you get intermittent cut out and die after the motor has run for a bit on a post 76 motor with electronic ignition, you can not find the problem when doing your testing, try heating the powerpack up with a hair dryer with the motor running on the muffs and see if it repeats the problem which could be losing spark. What amazes me is that even with the hole in the block and the broken ring/piston that this little motor still ran, not good, but it ran enough to get us back to the boat launch. This model uses a considerable less heavy duty push button switch, requiring the use of the solenoid. Others (later ones), the main fuel line goes directly to. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start no spark. The bulk of it to be passed across the top and out the exhaust ports. Yamaha connectors look the same as OMC, but the fuel stud is larger, creating a air leak if used on the OMC.
It ran so well that I never put the new soft plug in. These O rings in the fittings can be damaged, leaking causing a vacuum leak up to the motor. Well it had gotten hot enough a few times that it died, so I decided to rebuild it, including new piston rings. Where do I go from here? Apparently they had lost the key and tried to tighten the flywheel enough in the best location was the intent, but it apparently was not properly aligned to the crankshaft slot. Now don't be misled by just a somewhat high compression reading. Here is evidence of the broken piston pieces being imbedded into the head||Here the blown piston, missing the top section of the lower LH ring groove. The reason for the tear down was worn rings, which may have also been caused by the water internally in the past as the cylinder walls were also stained, but not pitted. To need to be sure to vent this auxiliary tank however. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start solenoid. Gale had their own Buccaneer brand sold. In hindsight the fuel pump probably had a hole in the diaphragm which actually pumped too much fuel into the crankcase at wide open throttle and which in effect flooded the engine. The pivot nut (#83) (shown in the pictures in the #7 section below) is really only a jam nut locking the bolt it is threaded onto from rotating in the arm itself when the handle is raised or lowered. Upon checking, I found the bolts holding the power pack to the block were loose, creating a bad/intermittent ground.
I'm resurrecting a 1976 (15604r) 15hp Evinrude that sat for 9 years. You will note that on the newer motors, OMC did away with the metal bottom and replaced it with a form of plastic/nylon, which would eliminate this rust kind of problem. One precaution here that may help someone at a later date would be to before you reassemble things to run a 1/4" X 20 TPI tap into each of these holes cleaning up the threads. Every time it was running fine when I delivered it to him. The newer parts have both bronze teeth as compared to sintered steel, nylon or aluminum for the older units. Next I cut the top out of a plastic margarine tub to form a insulator and siliconed this plastic in place against the coil body. Evinrude 15 hp outboard won't start. The shaft has square ends, mating with square holes in the gears. Now with the new ethanol mix gasoline, this can. CLICK HERE for a link to an article on ignition timing for these older magneto systems. Lower shifting rod up allowing access to the connector retainer bolts now. I would then place it in a large 55 gallon tank, as compared to muffs, as you will need to run it for many hours to dry thing out. Reed valve plate looking from the rear, or block side, corrosion under a upper reed & not a full seating coverage on the lower.
Now when you try to start the small motor you have to pump the priming bulb for some time as your fuel line may be empty, and you will need to bring fuel from the main tank through that fuel line and into the carburetor. Penetrating oil was applied on the spring base, in the drilled hole then allowed to set for a few days in hopes of breaking the corrosion loose. Cheap and easy maintenance item, and might solve help you from chasing your tail. The above illustration and the following information are a reprint of OMC installation instructions for "OMC Clip Assembly P/N 431808" dated 3/87. In trying to soak this stuck shaft, you have to pull the driveshaft from the stuck section in the crankshaft, you may have to tip it upside down and pour penetrating oil in. 52) Electric Starter: We are assuming here that when you push the starter button that nothing happens, the starter motor does not engage and there is no noise from the starter at all. Problems with Johnson 15hp. Pound on the pliers again. In use of the home made tester, pull the spark plug boots, position them on the 2 protruding bolt ends, clamp the alligator clamp onto an exposed bolt head. If the piston skirt is worn, crankcase pressure can leak out the exhaust. Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. I once found one that had a small crack in the line UNDER the clamp, if you put the clamp back on exactly in the right place it would seal, but if it was slightly different location, then there was a vacuum leak on the suction side.
If you have access to a large metal lathe, you could mount the flywheel in the chuck and remove a slight amount of metal on the underside where it was rubbing, OR find a used flywheel of the same vintage. These new tanks have a spring loaded automatic vacuum one way venting system in the filler cap. Let it set for a couple of days. 9 or 15hp OMC, the cable linkage may be out of adjustment. This photo is of a short shaft motor. This may happen when you try to separate the upper housing from the lower unit. I'm guessing that I'm flooding the engine, but I really don't know. The shifting shaft link may be bent or need adjustment to keep it in gear if that is the case. 15) Hard Starting When Cold: This may sound stupid, but have you actually pumped the fuel line primer bulb until it becomes hard, thereby pumping fuel into the carburetor? They also made the following private brands: Sea. And the drive shaft was rusted so solidly into the pinion gear, that by even placing the shaft in my large lathe, moving the carriage back to where it could apply pressure and someone else beating on the other side with a block with a 4# hammer, nothing would move. That will not only test the pump, but detect other problems such as clogged filters, air leaks, etc.
Ideally a small crochet hook works best, but you can remove it with a SMALL screwdriver or ice pick. But getting the other part out of the crankshaft radiused groove without ruining the slot may be challenging. Another interlock where the where he manual starter spool interlock ratchet teeth has a dog lever on the top, or the side (depending on the year) of the spool that drops down, engages a ratchet that prevents the starter rope from being pulled if it is in gear. The arrow tip is actually on the silicone with the plastic just below it. If it is still not operating right, then your only option is to rebuild the carburetor, or at least tear it apart and clean it. In this instance, times have changed for the good, as we now have a better gasoline along with way better outboard oils. On these, then remove the upper 6 bolts for access to the shift linkage coupler. If the starter does not rotate, check the battery's state of charge, check terminals for corrosion and tight connections, and check the 20A fuse and fuse case. I fit is stuck, then time to purchase and install a new one. I have another single cylinder 3hp Gamefisher (made in Japan) that has 140#, which higher than any other that I have seen.
The thickness up and down is not where the tension is put between the two but the outer circumference pressure. You can be closer to your work and get more persuasive. Upon investigating, I found that these aftermarket points were not really compatible with the one of the electric start charge coils. Now put the prop back on the motor and go run it until the. The card should vibrate/oscillate. Excessive fuel or oil, engine flooded. If you are working on an earlier motor, there may be a glass sediment filter bowl under the carburetor. The understanding was that they were actually pretty good, though not really hot performers but performed fine as a second tier, "cheapout" image for the owners, but they were known to be thirsty as far as fuel consumption. Evidence of a leaky top oil seal with lots of oil under timing plate with the early white bearing ring of a 9. It is the experience of many that the pre 1977 OMC 9. However most of these older metal topped carburetors have one or more small soft plugs that plug a hole that was drilled in the body to make air or fuel passages. These are not expensive and good.
The O-Ring on the right is badly chewed up internally||Here are illustrations from a factory service manual|. We will be dealing here mostly with NON ELECTRIC START motors, simply because that narrows down many other things we will not need to look at. Use a good screw in type automotive compression tester. Then you may need to pull the powerhead so you can get at the upper spine and be able to remove the driveshaft. I personally would NOT like to see anything under the 85# however for the 9. Obsolete and unrepearable. Fuel tank vent or hose restricted. After the motor has run enough to remove this pressure of the internal fuel you have pumped, the bulb should become soft as the fuel flows thru it. In the photo below this lower unit has been repainted so both of the screw heads are painted, otherwise they are normally the silver color of stainless steel. Has it been USED or has it been ABUSED? Then along came TCW-3 oil which is a disaster in these old motors.
9/15's had a very weak spark to begin with. If the motor runs, you might let it run with the Kerosene in the gearcase in gear for a few minutes, shifting gears a few times. I ordered condensers since the rubber top of the old ones looks old but IDK.... I guess a lesson is to really consider is whether you want to trade/sell to a friend who may not totally understand outboard motor functioning.
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